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Introduction 1. Joining Beluga 2. Sea craft 3. Full steam ahead 4. Crashing and banging in port 5. Stopping and starting: from the Bosporus to the Black Sea 6. Heading for home: shipboard reflections 7. The ebb and flow of time 8. Gender matters: the challenges of being female on board 9. How ships lost their ‘rock and roll’! 10. Spartan standards and sacrifice: a life on floating steel Conclusions, signing off and final thoughts |