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02 INTRO
08 EDITOR'S LETTER 12 COUNTRY DWELLER The bucolic lives of Barbour consumers who live at their own pace 22 OPINION: VIRGINIA CHADWYCK- HEALEY Stories of balanced fashion consumption told by Virginia Chadwyck-Healey, owner of VCH Style and stylist for Catherine, Princess of Wales 28 WAY OF BARBOUR Barbour’s clothing, accessory, and shoe lines are efficiently planned and designed for contemporary life 38 DIAGRAM Analysis of Barbour’s signature waxed jackets, which were created from a clear vision 46 IN MY POCKET What is in the pockets of the owners of Barbour waxed jackets 54 BORN IN SOUTH SHIELDS Barbour factory in the port city of South Shields?the brand’s home ground and starting point 64 FROM THE ARCHIVE Originality as seen through the prototypes of the Barbour jacket archive 76 OPINION: DAME MARGARET BARBOUR Barbour’s DNA and heritage told by Dame Margaret Barbour, the current chair 82 ROOTED IN SCOTLAND Halley Stevensons, producer of waxed cotton for Barbour, and Kinloch Anderson, designer of Barbour’s own tartans 92 RETAILS Barbour styles told by Barbour design directors of men’s and women’s clothing as well as Barbour stores in the old neighbor-like areas of London, South Shields, and Edinburgh 100 HAND TO HAND Maintenance tips for Barbour jackets and Barbour Re-waxing & Re-loved services, which enable the jackets to be handed down over generations 106 OPINION: JACK CARLSON Jack Carlson, founder of Rowing Blazers, explains how to expand a brand’s worldview through imaginative, out-of- the-box thinking 112 CROSSOVER Barbour shows its many sides through continuous collaborations with unique fashion brands 122 FUNCTIONALIST Practical fashion items from other brands that Barbour fans love 128 MY OWN BARBOUR Barbour jackets as personal memory archives 136 BRAND STORY The growth of Barbour, a family business that has respected its heritage while nimbly responding to the trend of the times 142 OLD CATALOGS Barbour’s old catalogs show the zeitgeist, culture, and various lifestyles of the past 146 INTERVIEW Barbour’s key growth strategy and future plan as told by Managing Director Steve Buck, Global Marketing and Commercial Director Paul Wilkinson, and Vice Chair Helen Barbour 152 SPOTLIGHT Barbour products on celebrities and in the media 156 FELLOWS Brands that share keywords with Barbour like “Royal Warrant,” “waxed jacket,” and “workwear and outdoor wear” 159 OUTRO |
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■ About the Issue
Welcome to the 94th issue of B. When we reorganize our closets as the seasons change, we often sigh a lot. Although we have a lot of clothes, we always think we have nothing to wear for the coming season. And we treat clothes from a year or two ago as mere objects devoid of all charm or vitality. But despite our closets full of storied failures, if you will, there are a few items that do endure: the clothes, bags, and accessories we wear most frequently. They are neither thrilling nor eye-catching, but they quietly do their jobs. Personally, I think of these as “attachment” pieces. Despite the literal definition of the word, attachment has some ambiguity. It is far from clear values like good or bad, perfect or imperfect, and economical or uneconomical. What we can describe as an object of attachment is, I think, something that is “just right for me.” Focusing on the right fit for yourself may change your whole perspective on clothing. In this regard, Barbour, the second brand introduced by B in 2023, is something people can really get attached to. Barbour customers?not only in its birthplace of Britain but also across the world in Korea and Japan?and Barbour employees say they have long cherished the brand’s products and will continue to do so for years to come. Case in point: It is not unusual for Barbour enthusiasts to wear well-maintained waxed jackets for 10 or 20 years. There is definitely a difference between being a consumer and being a fan, and Barbour’s fandom, quiet yet strong, has been built on trust and faith. At the center of the fandom is the waxed jacket, which serves as sort of a tangible origin myth for the brand. Workwear for fishermen and laborers in North East England a hundred years ago, leisurewear for royalty and aristocrats who enjoyed hunting and horseback riding, and fashion apparel for celebrities and rock stars at music festival?Barbour has dynamically added to its history for each new era. Although functionality and durability are frequently used words to describe the brand, it is rather far- fetched to call Barbour a functional clothing brand. Compared to the specifications of outdoor clothing, which is designed to endure extreme conditions, the functional details of Barbour feel more like “traces.” As mentioned before, the legendary Barbour jackets have represented the culture of a certain region or profession, and in a way, wearing the brand’s items are symbolic. It is similar that you still want to drive manual gear cars in an era when electric vehicles are commercialized. It is not only because they do their job as a tool, but also because they are meaningful as a small comfort that fills up time like a hobby and makes your life ricker. In this vein, founder John Barbour’s progeny?now in the fifth generation as Barbour company owners?seem to have flexibly changed roles between the innovative businessperson, the creative storyteller, and the traditional researcher. The biggest achievement has been the brand’s ability to expand its business while not undermining the authority of the prototypes. In an interview with B, Steve Buck, managing director of Barbour said that Barbour was able to thrive by “making people surprised in a way that is not shocking.” Likewise, Barbour Chairperson Dame Margaret Barbour once said the brand has revolutionized itself very carefully. If it is a uniquely British skill to be able to discover small things and give meaning to them while simultaneously respecting and adapting them to the times, the Barbour family has been doing their job wonderfully. Eunsung Park Content & Editorial Director |